It could just be the calipers need to be filled back up with fluid which will adjust them to where they need to be. This was taught to me years ago by a mechanic with a one man shop. Try just pumping the brakes several times with the engine running and see if that doesnt help. Repeat for the left rear, right front, then left front. If too full, use a turkey baster to remove fluid. Starting with the right rear wheel, loosen the bleeder and pump fluid through. Take notice of how much fluid is in the MC. If you have no helper, you could bleed the brakes using the pump can. Flush the distribution block, and connect all the brake lines. Close the bleeders, and remove the tubes. The bowls are full, have checked for leaks and there are none, all bleeder screws are tight. Remove the front brake drums, brakes, and. Brake pedal feels just like it’s supposed to when the car is off, but when started the pedal practically goes right to the floor when you tap it with your foot. Remove the master cylinder and the brake fluid line to the brass block. Pump fluid through the line until both rear tubes have clear fluid. Bled all the brake lines today, just finished bleeding them about an hour ago. Connect a tube from the pump to the rear brake line.
Disconnect the lines from the distribution block. Connect a clear tube from the bleeders into containers. Use one dedicated to brake fluid only, so you may have to buy one. If you have a pressure bleeder, you already know what to do. What I've provided here is just an explanation as to why the rule of thumb exists regarding a standard order for bleeding brakes.Now is a good time to flush the system. However, when you are bleeding the 3rd closest, there is fluid flowing past the Second and 1st closest, meaning that you still need to bleed those when you're done with the third closest.Įdit: As pointed out in the comments, you should always refer to your manufacturer's instructions for the correct maintenance procedure for this and any other maintenance you perform on your vehicle. So, hopefully you can see via this illustration that if you are bleeding the 3rd closest wheel, there isn't any fluid flowing past the branch to the Fourth closest. 1 1965 TBird Brake Problems March 17, 2010, 01:31 PM Ok i have a 65 t bird and i purchased knowing the brakes werent working correctly i was told the master cylinder was bad so replaced it and all the brake lines except for the rubber hoses on the front (the ones that go into the calipers) and the back before the t splitter. Here is a rough illustration: # Rough Image There is no fluid that is passing that fourth branch, so there's less chance of air getting in there.
#Bleeding brakes on 65 thunderbird full#
Pump the brake, nice slow full strokes, until there are no visible bubbles coming through the tubing.
This is because when you move from the furthest wheel to the second furthest wheel, you now only have fluid flowing past three of the four branches. Use the method of bleeding where you press a medium length of clear plastic tubing onto the bleed nipple and put the other end under the surface of a small amount of brake fluid in an old bottle. When you start with the furthest wheel, though, you minimize the possibility that you miss air bubbles. You wouldn't even get that air out, because you've already bled that wheel and you think you're done with it. If you start with the wheel closest to the master cylinder and bleed it until there is no air, and then move on to the wheel furthest from the master cylinder (just as an example), as you're pumping the air out of that longest branch you could realistically get more air bubbles in the shortest branch. I have used two methods for bleeding.first a ball-check one-man tool where you hook it up, loose the bleed valve on wheel cylinder, and pump away. As you pump the brakes, the air will propagate down the hydraulic line, and randomly go down one of the branches towards one of the four wheels. Start bleeding the brakes at a corner till it quits bubbling and move to the next one. At some point, the hydraulic line attached to the master cylinder will branch to each of the four wheels. How I do it is take a clean glass jar, fill it up partially with brake fluid, get a clear tube that fits over the bleed screw and submerse it in the jar. If you have a lot of air right after your master cylinder for whatever reason, that air can travel to any point in the system.
0 kommentar(er)
